9/18/2011
The past few days have been a blur! Holy crap. We arrived in Kigali, Rwanda a day late because our flight leaving JFK was late and we missed our connection in Brussels. When we got to Kigali, we went to the Peace Corps hostel and met with our supervisors and hung out as a group, and started to get to know each other better. Thirty-seven of us we packed into four rooms with bunk beds! It was ri-cock-ulous! So many people!! During time at the hostel we got a couple immunizations, joy of joys, and had preliminary interviews about our experience as teachers and what our goals are during our service.
This morning we left the hostel and went to our Pre-Service Training (PST) hub in a nearby city. There we met all of our language and culture facilitators and had an AWESOME lunch of Mecixan style rice with beef with a scrumptious sauce and fresh fallen avacados and bananas!! Rwandan coke? Pretty great! After our lunch we met up with language, Kinyarwanda, teachers and went over some basic sayings. Muraho hello! Ni toi ____ my name is. After we left the hub and went to our host families houses where I’m currently typing. Since my parents weren’t here to greet me, I went with my language teacher and the three other girls in my village on a tour, greeting every person we passed along the way. It is so hard to describe being a white person and walking down the streets of a rural village in Rwanda. The children shout white girl white girl and run up to you asking questions and then follow you wherever you go in town. I felt like Moses, it was strange! Once we met all the girls host families we walked around the town a little more and then came back to each of our respective houses. Getting used to being such a minority is going to be a big thing. The good thing is, when we walked in the streets and started speaking in Kinyarwanda, the people were much more friendly and super surprised. Seemed like they were thinking, check out these white people speaking our language.
Obstacle number two I think will be getting used to the latrine toilets! If I ever had a fear of falling before, now it’s doubled because if it happens here, ya’ fall into a hole full of poop and all sorts of bacterial disasters!! Hoping in time it won’t be so strange.
In terms of training, we have language and culture classes from 8-4 with a lunch break. After that, seems like we’ll be out in the village practicing our Kinyarwanda. Wish me luck. It’s pretty hard!
That’s all for now!
Maramutze Bye!
09/19/2011
Today started with a 6:30am wake up to a breakfast with my host family. We had green tea with bread. Little known fact, in Rwanda, you put about 3 tablespoons of sugar in your tea for each cup! Going to get diabetes in a bit if I don’t watch out. After breakfast, I met up with the other girls in my village and we went to our first day of Kinyarwanda classes. Our classroom for right now is a front porch of a house. During our class we learned greetings and introductions in the language from 8am to 12pm. Something to get used to in Africa in general I think, is the sometimes overpowering smell of body odor. Yummy! After class we got a one hour lunch break.
09/20/2011
Today started like yesterday with a 630am wake up. This morning I had tea with milk in it with a few pieces of bread. The staple breakfast around here! After breakfast we went to our hub-site. This is a building dedicated to Peace Corps trainees like myself. Once we got there we had a briefing on some of the PC protocols and after that we had a super depressing lecture on all the diseases that one can acquire in Africa and specifically in Rwanda. Awesome things like, malaria, Typhoid, Meningitis, Hepatitis and of course rabies! We got our first set of rabies shots today. After medical stuff we had lunch and then had a cross-cultural lecture on perceptions American have of Rwandan culture and vice versa. Then the walk home. The three other girls in my village walked together and turned the wrong way and ended up walking past a primary school that had just let out for the day. And no joke we had about 50 kids walking around us and behind us. Like a little Rwandan army of primary school kids. It’s still really hard to get used to how much of an oddity we as Americans, white people are. Everywhere we go, there is constant staring and shouts of umuzungo which means white person. In Rwandan culture when you see people on the street you say hi to everyone. First as a way to integrate yourself into your community. Second it’s just a thing that everybody does. You stop way hello, how are you where are you from are you married. Complete strangers. Big difference from American background.
It’s crazy how the littlest things are so different here. A handshake for example. In America there is one way to really shake hands with someone. But, in Rwanda, there are like 5 different kinds used on different occasions and with meeting different people and their professions etc.
That’s all for now!
9/22/11
In class today we got a past the easy stuff like simple greetings and into the finer grammar points of the Kinyarwanda language. How certain prefixes change depending on the number of people and starting to learn simple negation for the verbs to be and to have. There are moments in just one class where I feel like I’m really getting it, but then after 10 minutes my teacher Liliose will ask me a question in Kinyarwanda, and I’ll have absolutely no idea what to say!! It’s really frustrating. I feel like a two year old trying to talk. After class today we went up the a local restaurant for lunch and had pasta!!! It was wonderful!! Also, rice and beans (the staples in Rwanda) a meat stew and plantains. After lunch up the Hub for what they call tech training. Basically it’s a time when everyone, who come from different educational backgrounds learns the basics of teaching. Today we went over how to outline a curriculum for a secondary level class. My assignment should be teacher training so my job as I’m figuring it our will be to take the students who have passed the basic 9 year education requirements and who were placed into language schools to become English teachers. With these students, I’m supposed to teach them how to teach English. A current Peace Corps Volunteer (PCV) came to our sector the past couple days and was really helpful in giving information about the types of things we can expect when teaching. Class size: anywhere between 40-80 students. School hierarchy. PCVs are near the bottom haha.
Fun experience for the last 24 hours. Taking a bucket shower in a thunderstorm. Pretty sweet!! Under a tin roof thinking I was gonna die haha.
Today though! After tech training we had a little more language practice and then walked home. There are a bunch of people in my house right now so I need to go and be awkwardly sociable. Tip for anyone who travels to Rwanda without speaking the language, if you can make them laugh/smile you’re on the right track. Good thing I like making an ass of myself!
9/23/11
Today was a “hub” day, meaning we spent the whole day at the hub site. First we had a talk with Gordy, a former PCV who is now some kind of director for Rwanda. He talked to us about the motivations we have for joining Peace Corps. Initially we all have big lofty grand ideas like helping the human race and stuff and he wanted to remind us I think that while those are the things we need to remember, the immediate in the moment is as important as well. Like right now for example, we’re here in Kamonyi, is Pre-Service training in order to learn Kinyarwanda and learn about Rwandan culture. It was a really good talk about keeping things in perspective and what development, a goal of Peace Corps really means.
After Gordy, we had a talk with our Peace Corps Medical Officers PCMOs about Mr. D! Known to everyone else as diarrhea!!! What causes diarrhea, the symptoms and how to go about fixing it! Super fun! Immediately after talking about loose stool we, of course had lunch. After lunch we had language classes for a little while and then talked about the umuganda tomorrow which is community service day. Everyone in the village gets together and cleans up the town, once a month I think? It depends on the village.
Once I got home I went on my first visit to get water. I went with one of the house servants Vernancie. Holy shit are jerrycans heavy!!! I don’t even have that far to walk, maybe 400 meters, but with 25 lbs of water it takes time! Gotta stop and talk to people and then start again! After the water experience, came home and helped the other servant, the title is one that I’ll never get used to I think, Francoise, and prepared beans, tomatoes, onions and parsley for our dinner. Now I think people are coming back to the house after work. Today is the end of our first week of classes and I am exhausted. After being on three continents in 2 days then getting to Rwanda and host families and starting school, sleep is something I LOVE and get when I can!! Each day up and ready to go by 7am, classes from 8am-4pm and then house chores like cooking and cleaning then dinner, all in KINYARWANDA!!! then awkward socializing then bed! Hurts my body and brain to think about it more! My host mom is here. Saara out!
9/24/11
Today was an important day for our village. Today was umuganda, which is community service day. Once a month people in the village, and nearby ones, get together and help the community in some way. Today I took my families hoe and with around 100-150 other Rwandans helped build a road. In two hours we created a road about half a mile long. It was a wonderful thing to see and to participate in. At first it was a bit daunting because each time I tried to hoe, about 10 Rwandans laughed at my super American, inexperienced attempts. After a while though it was nice to greet more people in the community and show them our support. After building the road there was a meeting that was one dude talking for about an hour. He just kept going and going! I’ve been told that Rwandans like to talk and today that was proved correct!
After the uumuganda I attempted to do laundry today. It’s embarrassing to realize how easy life can be in America regarding certain acts. Laundry doesn’t require fetching 4 jerrycans of water, 5 buckets, 2 things of bar-laundry soap, and tons of arms muscle to clean and wring out. The whole laundry process takes about 4 hours just to clean and hang up clothes to dry. In addition to clothes, we washed the shoes of everyone in the family, inside and out! Each time I tried to put my shoe in the “done” bucket Francoise would say Oya! Meaning No! Once the laundry is up to dry it’s time to start cooking dinner. I had thought there would be so much down time here, but I forgot that the simple things take the majority of the day and don’t leave any time to spare.
For lunch today I had fish! Pretty sweet! So tired!! Had to wake up at 6:30am on a Saturday. Definitely not my style. Hopefully tomorrow we’ll get to sleep in a little bit and do less haha.
Fun fact! Laundry is up hanging to dry in the rain. Love it.
Muramuke
10/1/11
It’s been a few days since my last entry! I thought I had lost my adapter and my computer’s battery life died, but luckily it was in my bag at hub.
Today we went to the big market about 15 minutes away by public transportation. I bought clothe to be made into a skirt, once I find a tailor, a bucket for doing laundry, bed sheets, and some fried bread, which I was told I can’t eat because it came from a public market and would probably get food poisoning! But all in all it was a good day. I would have made my papa proud today with my bartering skills. Got some things cut in half!
More later!
Trying to get on the internet here in the rain. It’s proving difficult to connect. We’ll see.
10/2/11
Today was, to use a blanket term, interesting. I feel like I need to use interesting, because the range of emotions that happened today was in the sense of the word, interesting. Today, our group of volunteer trainees went to the genocide memorial in the capitol city, Kigali. I had no idea what to expect yesterday and even during the bus ride over. I think the not knowing what was waiting for me at the memorial was one of the hardest parts of going. When we got there, we go to this beautiful white stone building and staircases leading down to lower parts of the grounds. As we went down the stairs we saw big slabs of cement. Slabs as big as swimming pools. There were four of five I think in total. Our guide described to us that under the slabs were mass graves for over 200,000 Rwandans killed in the genocide. That number hit me like a brick to the face. I couldn’t mentally visualize what so many people looked like. Even more, I couldn’t imagine how so many bodies could be held in so small a place. We kept walking and reached a mass grave that had a sort of glass chamber above it that allowed you to see how the bodies were laid within the graves. Wooden boxes stacked upon each other like human jenga pieces. It took your breath away. After having a moment of silence at the mass graves, we went inside the memorial that was broken up into three parts. The first part of the memorial was dedicated to the history and events that led up to the genocide in April 1994, the occurrences in the genocide and what occurred in Rwanda and internationally after. During the history part we learned about the influence of the Dutch colonials and the French involvement in providing the machetes used throughout the genocide. This part of the memorial was presented in pictures with text and videos from survivors.
As we all moved along reading and finally understanding the extent to what happened here, people began to cry. People were silent. In the memorial, there was no talking. Of the things that I read about today there were a few things that stood out. First, the treatment of women and children in the genocide. As a means of ensuring that no Tutsis could survive, men infected with HIV raped, beat and killed women thinking that if somehow they survived the genocide, the disease would finish the job. Children were also a primary target. As a symbol of any future generation, “enemy” children were another primary focus.
After leaving the first section, visitors are brought into a series of rooms that have pictures of the victims of the genocide donated by any surviving family members, but in my opinion that wasn’t the most powerful room. After viewing the pictures, visitors are directed into a room full of skulls and bones of a miniscule fraction of the people who were massacred. I was standing within a foot of someone who had been murdered for no reason. I couldn’t help but cry just standing there. I think what made it more powerful was the fact that I live with a Rwandan family. Seventeen years ago, those bones could have easily belonged to my little host sister. That knowledge was what frightened me the most.
After the development of the genocide and how it was presented globally, the memorial had a second section dedicated to genocides around the world; Armenia, Herero, Nazis, Cambodia etc.
The final, and most heartbreaking section of the memorial was dedicated to the children who were slaughtered. It was presented like a gallery of portraits of children, their names, their favorite foods, favorite hobbies, age they were killed, and how they were killed. When you look at a picture of a 6 year old, whose favorite hobby is playing soccer and eating fried potatoes, that was hacked to death by machetes you feel nothing but sadness and regret. For me, that was the hardest part of the memorial, knowing that within the community of children that were murdered, was the potential of a generation.
What made today interesting as I said, was not just visiting the memorial, but after. After our visit, we all got back on the bus and drove into a white-person friendly mall to have American style food. During lunch everybody was laughing and smiling. Thinking about it now, it’s exhausting to think about how extreme the two experiences were. First we learned how an entire nation was murdered and second we were reveling in the fact that we were eating cheese for the first time in weeks. Maybe the only way to experience something like that is to have a completely contrasting counterpart.
I am completely in awe of this country. Right now, my host family has guests and are living their lives. Rwandans have made such gargantuan strides to move beyond and learn from their past. Where does that kind of strength, courage and humility come from?
10/3/11
On our schedule for today: classroom observations. A small group of us were able to go to a local boarding school and observe one English class and a class in another subject. Today I saw a English and chemistry. Chemistry in any language, in my opinion, is fascinatingly boring. Positive take away from the chemistry class though was that the teacher conducted class entirely in English. We, the trainees, have been hearing that the majority of teachers in the country either still teach in French or in Kinyarwanda, so it was very encouraging to see our future colleagues promoting the goals of the Ministry of Education. After chemistry, we went to an English class. The teacher I observed today was AWESOME!! After just observing one class I could tell that the students fed off his own passion for English and as a result, almost every student was actively participating, raising their hands and were genuinely excited about the language.
Tomorrow we’re going to have a formal “debriefing” about our experience at the genocide memorial. I feel like tomorrow there will be much more to say. Till then, hasta luego!
10/4/11
Today was the first really not so good day. To start off the day, we had our “debriefing” about going to the genocide memorial. In small groups we talked about our experience. It was weird at first because I was in a group of guys. I think it was good to have both perspectives. They learned that as a woman, the memorial was a different experience because women and children were the target of the genocide. From the guys I learned about how there were clothes that were saved from bodies, and one thing in particular was a Superman blanket and how in your mind Superman, or the idea of Superman, is supposed to protect you from these kinds of horrible horrible things. The discussion was also challenging because most of us felt that after visiting the memorial, some questions were answered, but it also created more and negotiating how to approach those curiosities respectfully will be a challenge for the next two years. We also tried to talk about how this topic will affect us teaching. How do we bring up this event? Hopefully any semblance of an answer will come before we go to site.
After our debriefing, we had the second part of our sexual assault discussion. We had to listen to a recording of one woman’s story. We talked about what to do if you are a victim of sexual assault and how Peace Corps handles such an incidence. We had to talk about the psychological and physiological things that can happen. The main idea of the discussion was that Peace Corps has your back. They’ve taken a lot of flak but looking at my country director and the medical officers I feel more confident knowing that they’re here.
Then we had lunch. I broke out the volleyball and played. I have a feeling it’s going to be a good past-time. It gets you moving and laughing and playing around with other people.
Our day ended with more negativity. One of our trainees decided to terminate early. We had to say goodbye. I know I’m going to miss her, but after talking to her, I know she’s going to be better off than if she had tried to stick it out and been unhappy for two years. Honestly, I don’t know if I can last for two years, but I admire her for being able to decide for herself what’s best and then committing to her decision to leave. They can try all they want, but there is no way to describe how hard it is to be so far away from the life you’re accustomed too. On the walk home with some of the girls in our group, we were all laughing and I think it was a sort of release. I don’t know; it was comforting in a way to know that where someone else had to leave I’m still here. Is that so wrong? Peace Corps isn’t for everybody and I’m still hoping that as time moves on, those really lofty and idyllic goals I had in coming here become more tangible. It’s hard because right now I barely have time to sit by myself and think about my day, which is frustrating, but the alternative of being at site alone is still scary. I never thought of myself as someone who is scared by a lot of things, but here, you’re really forced to face your fears. Spiders, mice, isolation, inability to communicate, teaching. By the time I’m done here, no matter when that may be, cause I don’t know (I’m hoping the full two years!!) I want to be sure that I did the best I could. Enough contemplating for now! Time for cold bucket shower!!!
10/7/11
Today I heard a sound for the first time in my life. We had a guest speaker today who talked about his experiences before and during the genocide. During one part of his story he talked about the roadblocks that were used by those killing people and one of our LCFs let out a scream/sob that made my entire body cold. The “roadblocks” during the genocide were composed of human bodies. I have never heard someone who sounded like they were in so much pain. This particular LCF got up and left the room and didn’t come back. The fact that we are here, living with people who have been witness to mass murder and who have committed mass murder is a horrifying thought. I am again, dumbfounded at the ability of Rwanda to even exist. The country was murdered and they are still here. My little sister is playing outside and people laugh and make jokes. We learned today that the district that I live in right now, was host to one of the key players involved in the planning, preparation and implementation of actions during the genocide. How would you feel if you knew that the crops where you get your potatoes were also mass graves for people who were slaughtered 15 years ago? I gotta go right now but I’ll write more later, my mom is asking where I am.
10/8/2011
It’s a quiet Saturday afternoon here in Kamonyi. It rained the entire night last night, kept waking me up. It doesn’t help that here, roofs are made of tin. As a result, that nice gentle pitter-patter of rain in the states that we find so comforting is a cacophony of what sounds like someone just continually dropping glass marbles on tuna fish cans. This morning, 8 am on a Saturday to be precise, we had our preliminary language placement tests. We had to go to different rooms with different language teachers and act out certain scenarios. The first, which was the most challenging in my opinion, was recreating the market and in the true Rwandan style, bargaining! I had to go and pretend to buy beans and onions and barter with the teacher on the price. Numbers in Kinyarwanda are ri-cock-ulously difficult. I had always though numbers in French were difficult but Kinyarwanda shits all over that misconception. The number 5,878 for example is ibihoombi bitanu na magana nani mirongo irwe na umunani. Give me a freaking break! After the market one, we had to simulate getting to our site for the first time and asking important questions of our neighbors, which was really helpful. I asked questions like where do you get water, who is the chief of the village, where does he live, family situation, where is the school? Next I went to talk about household objects and food and beverages which went alright. The last little scenario was me discussing my family both in America and in Rwanda. Not many people know this, but family in Kinyarwanda is extremely complicated. There are three different ways to say aunt, specifically the sister of your mother, because the sister of your brother has three ways as well! Each way corresponds to the person who is being discussed and changes between first, second and third person. FML!
Once the test was over, a group of us decided to walk to the market which is in the next town. It’s about a 45 minute walk down the big “hill” our town is on. Once we got there, we bought chapatti, which are like think tortillas, avocados and bruchettes, which are pieces of shishkabob-ed goat meat and rolled them up into Rwandan style fajitas. They could have used some hot sauce and onions, they were delicious!!! Once we were done feasting we came back and a couple girlfriends and I went to the local tailor to get some skirts made. I bought the fabric last week at the market, for 2500 (Rwandan Franks) RWF and am getting a tailor made skirt for 3000 RWF which totals about 8 dollars. Pretty sweet deal. The tailor that we went to is the host dad of one of the guys in our group and is pretty well known throughout the village as being very good, so I’m really excited!!
We’re going on our first month and it seems surreal. Time here is pretty tricky. During one day you want to punch yourself in the face because things are moving so slowly, but then you sit down for a second and realize that a month has gone by.
Tomorrow our group is going to the museum in Butare. After that I feel I’ll be waning to write a bit so stay tuned. Each time we have a genocide discussion or excursion I get wiped out. Bye for now.